Quanum Cyclop+ firmware modification
The Quanum Cyclops is a low-budget FPV goggle with a build in 40 channel receiver and is compatible with race band.
By default it is not possible to manually select a channel but thanks to the brilliant work done by Dvonogen we can manually select channels with his modified Cyclop+ firmware.
We will also add a OLED display which will show the current channel, RSSI value and a battery monitor for the battery powering the goggles.
It is possible to only flash the Cyclop+ firmware and don’t add the OLED display but I would highly recommend to add it because the useful information it provides.
The modified Cyclop+ firmware will add the following features:
- Manual scroll through all 40 channels
- Frequency scanner with waveform
- Options menu to change the settings of the OLED display
- Battery alarm (currently not working yet)
- Boot logo on/off
- Flip the OLED screen
- Show a battery meter for 2s, 3s and 9v batteries
The latest version at the time writing is 1.3 which can be found on Dvogonen’s GitHub page.
Hard and software needed for the mod
To flash the firmware to the receiver board of the Quanum Cyclops we need to have some tools.
The USBASP programmer is the device we need to flash the firmware. They come with a 10 pin wire but we only got 6 ICSP programming pins on the receiver board so that’s what the adapter is for. The pin headers aren’t needed and you could solder the needed wires to the board but to keep it nice, clean and easy to unplug I like to use pin headers. This also comes in use for any future upgrades.
We also need some software to flash Cyclop+.
AVRDUDESS is a GUI for a command line based flashing tool called AVRDUDES.
Zadig is needed to install the correct drivers on a Windows system to get the USBASP working correctly.
Preparing the goggles
WARNING: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOUR GOGGLES.
YOU SHOULD BE AWARE OF THE RISKS AND DOUBLE CHECK EVERY CONNECTION BEFORE YOU POWER UP THE GOGGLES!
To get to the receiver board we have to unscrew the 4 screws on the bottom of the goggles.
Now we can open the case and take a look inside the goggles.
Now we have to disconnect the power and video cables from the receiver board.
Note: Never try to flash firmware while the power and video cable are connected! Make sure all cables are disconnected from the board!
Soldering the pin headers to the receiver board
Pull the board out of the case and unscrew it from the sledge it sits on.
Once you’ve done that we will solder the ICSP pin headers to the board and the pin headers to connect the OLED display to.
See the next pictures for the positions of the headers.
Now all that is left is a little wire connecting the empty pin we just soldered on to the 5v output on the top right of the board.
When I was putting the goggles back together after I finished I accidentally broke of the pin headers of the OLED display.
It also ripped of the soldering pads so I wasn’t able to solder the pins back on in a solid way.
On the back of the board there is a SDA and SCL connection as well but the text on the board is swapped! That means SDA = SCL and SCL = SDA on the back of the board!
Testing the USBASP and the 10 to 6 pin adapter
First you’ve got to make sure that the voltage output on the USBASP is 3.3 volts! My USBASP programmer has a little switch to switch between 3,3v and 5v.
Then we’ve got to make sure that the USBASP VCC output actually is connected to the VCC on the receiver board of the Cyclops.
If you connect the VCC to the wrong pin you will fry the receiver board of your Cyclops so we’re going to check both the USBASP and the adapter outputs.
The top left ICSP pin on the receiver board is the VCC pin. To verify that this is indeed the VCC pin we have to grab a multimeter and put it into ohm mode to measure the resistance.
After we verified the outputs of the board we’re going to verify the USBASP programmer and the adapter to make sure nothing is swapped.
We use the same method as before so keep your multimeter in ohm mode.
Plug in the USBASP adapter to the receiver board but do not connect it to your computer yet!
Take a close look at the USBASP programmer and the adapter to search for the VCC outputs.
If you’ve found the correct pins on the USBASP or adapter hold the other wire of the multimeter on the 3.3.v output on the receiver board we’ve used before.
If you get any feedback from the multimeter everything is wired up correctly. If the multimeter doesn’t give back a number of resistance than don’t proceed but find out first what goes wrong!
Last but not least unplug the USBASP adapter from the receiver board and connect the USBASP to a USB port on your computer with the voltage output set to 3.3v.
Now measure the voltage output with a multimeter to make sure the output voltage is 3.3 volts.
Installing the driver for the USBASP
The first thing we need to do before we can flash the Cyclops board is installing the driver for the USBASP programmer.
The easiest way to install the driver is to use the software program Zadig.
Download the latest version of Zadig from their website and open up the exe file once your download is finished.
Note: OSX and Linux users can use the USBASP straight ahead.
Connect the USBASP to an USB port. Sometimes Zadig automatically detects the USBASP device otherwise you have to go to options in the menu and click on “list all devices”.
You’ll notice that a list of devices is now selectable in the drop down menu on the main screen. Open the drop down menu and select the USBASP programmer from the list.
Now select the libusbK driver in the right column of the driver section. The left column is showing the driver currently installed.
Click the replace driver button and wait a couple of minutes for the drivers to install.
Flashing the Cyclop+ firmware with AVRDUDESS
Once the driver is installed we have to download the firmware by Dvonogen from GitHub.
There are two way to flash the Cyclop+ firmware. The first way is to build the firmware yourself so you could edit code if you would like to and the second way is just flashing the firmware file pre build with AVRDUDESS. I will only discus the second and easiest method because I won’t edit anything in the code.
If you like to try the hard method please check Dvonogen’s GitHub for more details about building your own Cyclop+ firmware.
Open the file with a text editor like Notepad and verify all line start with with a colon character ( : ) and make sure all lines look like this: 1001C0006C1680169416A816BC16D016E416F816EF.
Now connect the 10 to 6 pin adapter to the receiver board of the Cyclops and make sure you connect VCC to the correct plug on the board (top left ICSP pin or see pictures above). Connect the adapter to the USBASP and connect it up to your computer.
Now open up AVRDUDESS so we can configure the tool to flash to Cyclops board.
First we have to select the USBASP programmer in the drop down menu at the top of the window. (it’s almost at the bottom of the menu)
Once you’ve selected the programmer we have to select the MCU which is an ATMega 328p. In the flash area we now open the cyclop_plus.hex file we downloaded earlier.
Now select Intel Hex in the flashing area in the format menu and we’re ready to execute the write command by clicking the go button next to format.
Once you’ve clicked on the Go button a LED on the receiver board will light up, right next to the ICSP pins on the top left of the board.
Wait for this light to start blinking before disconnecting the USBASP. AVRDUDESS will tell you the firmware has flashed correctly before the LED starts blinking.
If everything went oke you now have the Quanum Cyclop+ firmware installed and we can start connecting back the LCD screen wire and the power cable to the receiver board. After plugging those back in all we have to do before testing is connecting the OLED display. Connect the cables to the pin headers we soldered on the board earlier.
The OLED display should turn on and show a boot logo before it starts showing the information it is receiving from the goggles once you power up the goggles.
If the OLED display doesn’t light up you can still check if the firmware was installed correctly by single pressing the channel button of the goggle to see if it doesn’t start an automatic scan. If it doesn’t start scanning your probably good and something went wrong with connecting the OLED display. Check all the wiring and the soldering.
Using the Cyclop+ firmware
To get into the options menu to set up the OLED display, power off your goggles and press the white channel button while turning on the power again.
The option menu should show up where you can configure some options displaying on the OLED screen.
To scroll through the menu just press the channel button. To adjust the settings long press the channel button, release it and the option will change. Once you’re finished scroll to Exit and long press the channel button to boot up normally.
Note: The battery warning option isn’t functional yet and will be added with a future upgrade.
To manually select a channel short press the channel button and it will jump one channel forward. If you double press the channel button you will jump a channel back.
To let the Cyclops automatically scan for a channel like it used to do press and hold the channel button for a second or two.
If you press the channel button for longer then two seconds a frequency scanner will show up, showing you a waveform with the signal strength on certain channels. This can be useful to verify the automatic channel scan chose the strongest signal.
That’s it for now! I hope this tutorial was useful and you can enjoy from your improved Quanum Cyclop FPV goggles.
If you have any questions or comments leave a reply, send me an email or contact me on social media.